Last year at Fabricland, the great Canadian chain store, they had a rather nice and very beefy ponte-type knit. I couldn't resist and a pant length came home with me. In stash, a mistake from on-line shopping years ago at Wazoodle, was quite a lot of of black synthetic (supplex nylon) knit fabric with a plush surface. It's softer than the lining of my RTW pants, by a factor of 10 or so.
I muslined the interesting pants from the December, 2009 issue of Burda Magazine. Here's the line drawing.
The curved seam goes around to the back where it incorporates the dart shaping needed, and makes a little yoke.
I left off the pockets.
The biggest challenges in making these were to ensure the seams would stay flat and smooth in both lining and outer fabric. I sewed the pants entirely on my sewing machine, using a 1.5x1.5mm zig zag stitch which is stretchy but thin enough to press open.
For the outer layer, I topstitched using the same tiny zig zag stitch before trimming the seam allowances. In the lining, I flattened the seam using a 3-step zig zag, and trimmed the seam allowance very close to the stitching. This worked really well.
It's hard to take a good picture of a really black garment, and the camera finds every bit of lint!
To keep the waist and fly front relatively bulk-free, I used a cotton woven fabric for the waistband and fly facings, and the fly shield. I also interfaced the outer waistband to reduce stretchiness almost to zero there.
|Pretending to skip|
A jeans button (hammered in, no sewing!) and machine sewn hems through all layers completed these pants.
They are warm.
And they are SO COMFY!