Monday, November 17, 2014

Special request - Vogue 2126

My good friend Anne-Marie of le mani d'oro is very seriously looking for a special pattern for a very special event to take place next summer.  It's Vogue 2126, an Issey Miyake pattern from 1998.

Send her an e-mail using the link at the bottom of her blog post if you have a copy of this pattern in size XS-S-M.  She is willing to buy it or rent it (copy and return) at your choice.

Tuesday, November 11, 2014

My goodness, what a lot of buttonholes!

That's a total of 10.  Six up the front, two on the collar, and one on each pocket flap.
Only six more to go (there are three on each cuff).

I made bound buttonholes because no machine I own could make nice enough sewn buttonholes through all the layers of wool melton.

The technique I use is well presented here

  • I found I was able to make a pretty narrow buttonhole by stitching 5 clicks to the right and then the same to the left of the centre guide line.  My finished buttonholes are 7mm wide.
  • I backstitch at each end of this line of stitches (none of that knotting the thread and weaving it in for me).  
  • After clipping I press the tiny seam allowances open so that half the bulk is inside and half outside.  This prevents an obvious difference in height around the buttonhole.  With a thinner fabric I wouldn't bother to do this.  
  • I found with my thick and forgiving fabric I did not need to do any hand stitching to secure the welts.  I just spoke to them sternly and manhandled them until they were pretty even.
  • I agree with Sherry - don't press them until they are all sewn.  

Pockets - topstitched and ready to be sewn by hand
on the coat fronts.
Once the remaining ones are done, the rest of the coat will come together REALLY fast, right?