In this case:
- I prefer the stand up collar. I also tested the asymmetrical floppy one. Nah.
- The shoulders are a tiny bit too pointy.
- The bust shaping is a tiny bit too high.
- I have crappy posture. Nevertheless, the coat is shifting slightly to the back. This is probably not a fitting problem but because my muslin isn't sliding nicely over the bulky fleece jacket I have on under it.
- The sleeves are too long. I'll shorten by about 1.5cm, less than my usual. This is to be a winter coat after all.
- I really do have a narrow back. It needs taking in. I cut a size 10; maybe if I reduce the upper back pieces to size 8 or even 6, it will be about right.
- I could use more shape at the waist. Why not?
- I like the raglan lines and shaping of this coat.
What else did I discover about the pattern? Well, sewing the CF to the side front was a bit of an adventure
because I wasn't paying attention for two reasons. The first is that there is a mistake on the pattern - the notches on the pieces that are just below the pocket placement circle are mis-printed. And, the length of the CF pieces is shorter than the side front pieces by 22mm (7/8"), the difference between the hem on the side front pieces and the seam allowance at the lower edge of the CF.
If you mindlessly assemble according to the notches, the bottom cut edges will be close to matching (but not quite). If you proceed, as I did, on the theory that you probably made a cutting and/or notch alignment mistake, and the bottom edges are supposed to match, you will end up with extra fabric in the side front at the waist area. This is clearly wrong, and you may assume (as I did initially) that the excess is supposed to be at the bust and that the notches there are mis-printed. This excess length can be eased in at the bust, but doing so will throw off the grain and the length of your coat.
The instructions do illustrate this small length difference, and there is a small circle to match at the lower edge, but I wasn't paying enough attention. Note to self: check pattern before sewing, the next time. Because I am uncertain of the finished length I want (and because I mindlessly tend to simply match up the pieces at the lower edge in sewing), I will add the extra length to the CF pieces so they are all the same.
I discovered that my extensive stash has all the ingredients for the coat. I'll reserve on a final button decision until after I can try out the (black) buttons I own against the navy fabric.
I have decided to line it with some printed polyester crepe rather than "proper" lining fabric. I think it is substantial enough. I'll underline with some micro-fleece, and put something windproof in the back. The melton will be more than warm enough, especially since there will be four (4) layers of it where the double breasted fronts overlap!
As for length, the longest view on the pattern is 104cm (size 8, 10). That's 41" for the metrically challenged. I want to add 15cm (6"). And I may end up facing the hem. We'll see.