Tuesday, July 5, 2016

Bifurcated garments

In Montreal, we were working on pants fitting. I took 3 muslins and some fabric.

I had high hopes for the Sewing Workshop Hollywood Pants. High waist, three (3) pleats in front. But no. I could have fiddled the fit but the legs have that early 90s pegged shape. I wanted flowy and these are not.

So then I tried this Burda magazine pattern from 2008 that I had already traced (years ago) but never made. I like these - in theory. However: the yoke is big and the pleats start too far down, visually truncating the legs. (This model must be wearing 6" heels...)

So it came down to door number three, Style 1568. This is a pattern from 1988. I had previously made the trousers which have a very high waistband, deep front pleats and a 25" hem width. Back in the day I wasn't so finicky about fitting, but I noticed that I had lengthened the back dart to take out excess fabric. My Montreal fitting consultants told me I needed to scoop out a bit more from the crotch curve in back, and shave off a curve at the high hip, but otherwise my blaze orange muslin got a thumbs up.

My first pants from this pattern were made from a pretty stiff wool in black. I wore them for years. My current version will be the polar opposite - lightweight striped linen.

Sewing from stash is good.

In other sewing news, I made another pair of Cora shorts. So far I like them in basic black with a little pop of colour. This time in yellow.

I lengthened them 2.5cm (1") above the hem band and the same again at the waist (putting the extra length in the body pieces and leaving the waistband the same). And I cut a longer piece of elastic than called for at the waist. My previous pair is ok but the extra length makes them just great.


  1. Oh, I really like the Style 1568, you will look terrfic in those, and congrats on the shorts!
    Joyce from Sudbury

  2. Style 1568!! I almost fainted when I saw this pattern enveloppe. I made these trousers and the top back in the '90s and the ensemble was truly awesome. Recently, I started to listen to some music from that era (!) and remembered these pants + top. I then tried to find the pattern in Etsy, thinking it was from Vogue. So happy I now have precise details for my research. Thanks for refreshing my memory and good luck with your pant fitting project!

    1. I'm glad to help anyone rediscover this pattern. Good luck with your search!

    2. Hey! I was able to locate the pattern in Etsy yesterday but the sizing wasn't good and it was pricey. I then turned to ebay and found it! In addition, the seller is in Montréal, the size is good and the price is more reasonable. Sorry to bug, but I'm just too happy. Thanks again, Kay.

  3. Finding flattering, well fitting compression shorts is nearly impossible (I have looked, bought and returned). These are really nice. Thanks for the inspiration.