Sunday, August 12, 2012

Breaking news on the jacket front

True to my word, I have put together the size 8 muslin of Vogue 8804 including sleeves.

Let me tell you, those sleeves are just weird.  The under-sleeve is very narrow but instead of curving with the wearer's arm, it fights that curve at the hem.  This may be because of the very strange pitch of the inner seam of the front sleeve.  This explains the odd grain angle at the lower end of the sleeve, visible on Vogue's website pictures of the jacket.

If the strange biasing made the sleeve feel great on, you would not get any complaints about it from me.  But it doesn't feel right.  The combination of the seam angles under my arm feels like the fabric is pulling the whole front of the sleeve straight down, instead of letting it curve with my arm.  If I hold my arms naturally, the lower sleeve hangs up on my lower arm at the front (you can see there is no forward shaping in Ann Rowley's sleeve).  And if I hold my arm straight, the sleeve wings  strangely toward my hips.

And as you can see in the dreadful photo at right, there is some unattractive excess fabric in the upper arm as well.  I expected slender, elegant and anatomically correct.  Instead ... well, an inmate has escaped wearing baggy prison clothing.

In other news, I am going to pinch out some fabric along the princess line above the bust, and I think the waist is too low on me.  I'll take 1cm out above the waist.  Otherwise, the bodice seems fine to me.

I am going to have to think about this.


  1. All I can offer is agreement: the sleeves are *not* what we're expecting in a Chanel jacket. The folds on the right one seem to suggest that the sleeve cap needs to be rotated forward a bit, but I don't think that would fix all the problems. They're too big and they just don't hang well...and it's a good thing I'm talking about sleeves here. -Karla

  2. Wow. Have these sleeves ever been controversial. Check out the very long thread on Stitcher's Guild. I also have to agree with you. Maybe I will make this and use the bodice of 8804 and the three piece sleeve from her older iteration. I will be watching before starting my own effort.

  3. Darn! Why don't things always go the way you hope they would? Good luck.

  4. How disappointing to have baggy sleeves. I agree with Bunny that the older sleeves might be the way to go. I wonder why she drafted such wide sleeves on this version.

  5. The sleeves are to me the most beautiful part of a Chanel jacket. You're right to want something more fitted and functional before taking on this project.
    Is the shoulder width ok? The left shoulder looks a tad long as I'm looking at the picture of your muslin. Might just be an illusion.
    Will be keeping up with your adventure, Good Luck!

  6. Those sleeves are part of why I bought this pattern! Boy, are they a disappointment. They look nothing like the ones on the model. I agree about the shoulder looking a tad long. Maybe take in a little more than a tad at the waist. What are you going to do about the sleeves?

  7. This is on my list for fall. I appreciate your test driving it first - I look forward to how you will handle the sleeves!! Sue Anfang

  8. I'm always fascinated to read your posts! I'm pretty new to sewing, and I don't think I would catch on to the cause of the wonky sleeves myself! (Also, I'm super impressed with your patience and muslin-ing...I need to work on that I think!)