The Sewing Lawyer is not really sure what drew her to the ruffled blouse in the April 2010 edition of Burda Magazine in the first place. Probably it was not the ruffles. Nor could it possibly be the side zipper opening, or the deeply plunging front neck. All of these features have been eliminated or significantly altered in the Sewing Lawyer's version. She did give the ruffle a try, despite knowing that it would not be satisfactory. Forty or so years of sewing experience does sometimes enable one to predict when some feature of a garment will be completely wrong. Too bad they don't always allow one to avoid going ahead regardless. The Sewing Lawyer fatalistically reacquainted herself with her trusty seam ripper.
First, she tried cutting the ruffles down, dramatically. Remember the attack of the ruffles, take 1? Well, take 2, while marginally better, was not enough of an improvement. Off they came ... again.
Here's a view of the back.
I'm happy with the print matching. There is a yoke seam at the upper back...
I turned the original cut-on-the-fold front into a button-up by virtue of adding a seam allowance at CF instead. Instead of an overlapping front, I added a little shield to sit behind the loops. It is barely visible, as you can see to the right, which means it was necessary.
Second, like several other bloggers of late, I clean-finished the facings using fusible interfacing. I do not know who to credit with this technique. It's fantastic - both easy and producing an obviously superior result. There is a tutorial over at Sigrid's site (from Lori V's blog, Girls in the Garden) but, thinking a few more details would help, I took some pictures while this was in progress.
First, cut your fusible as usual using the facing pattern piece. Lay the unfused interfacing on the facing, right sides together (that means with the glue side NOT against your fashion fabric). Sew the 2 together along the edge(s) of the facing which will not be sewn to the garment edge.
I think my seam was about .25" which ended up being about right, because this made the fusing a little bit easier than it might have been, I think.
I started the fusing by opening the seamed unit, and fusing in the seam allowance only while gently holding the fusible interfacing taut and away from the facing. In the photo to the right, the seam allowance is fused to the right, unfused at the left side. Obviously you have to do this carefully and just with the tip of the iron, to avoid sticking your interfacing to the ironing board cover.
My next project? I'm planning to take Vogue 8718 out of its envelop and contemplate its mysteries.
Sunday, June 5, 2011
Labels: Burda 2010-04-105, refashioning, Ruffled blouse, tutorials
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Now THAT looks very "Kay"!! ;)ReplyDelete
Lovely blouse. Like the lack of ruffles. No fussiness.ReplyDelete
Very, very nice!ReplyDelete
I especially love the button closure that you have.
This is a very amusing post. Thanks!ReplyDelete
Your blouse, whilst only distantly related to Burda's, looks terrific. I admire your button loop salvage.
I just used that clean fused facing technique for the first time, and am a big fan. I cut off the fusable in the seam allowance after sewing though - I was concerned that my garment would be too stiff with 4 layers in the seam.
What a great blouse! I love the print. If I ever see it, I'm going to buy it! It's a good thing we don't live in the same city!! LOLReplyDelete
Great recycle of the skirt! And great matching too.ReplyDelete
I love it! Beautiful work.ReplyDelete
Beautifully made blouse and bravo on sticking to your personal style. PS I liked the ruffles!ReplyDelete
Beautiful blouse and your pattern matching (as always) is perfect.ReplyDelete
Really nice blouse! I also found myself drawn to that pattern although I *never* wear ruffles. I like your version a lot— great fitted shape. I could see myself making something like it.ReplyDelete
That is so great. Smart of you to remove the ruffles. Faboo!ReplyDelete
LOL! I made this top and removed the ruffles as well. I was drawn to the banded collar and the deep slit neckline - but I still need to raise the slit a bit!ReplyDelete
Check it out! http://www.sewinguptheneighbourhood.com/2011/04/banded-collar-ruffle-front-blouse-burda.html
I am intrigued by your button placket. I will have to remember that option the next time!
That's really the best thing about sewing. If you don't like something, you are totally free to change it!
Very nice! Lots of fun details, and it really is perfect for you. I know that interfacing technique has been around a LONG time, like maybe from when SewNews was extra large, and on manila paper. (The Dark Ages.) It still works, though. :)ReplyDelete
Thanks for explaining the technique with the interfacing--I've read about it on a few blogs but didn't really "get it" til your tute!ReplyDelete
Also like the front shield--great idea!
That looks stunning! The tailored look is definitely you. I love your sewing and I love your blog. PS. My name is Helen - not sure how to get that on the comment - I'm not anonymous.ReplyDelete
I am curious as to what interfacing you use? I tried this technique but had problems with my interfacing shrinking so went back to block fusing before cutting.ReplyDelete
I took up sewing as an experiment. I'm getting old, and I've heard that learning completely new things helps to keep the aging brain in good shape. I've been amazed at how much fun sewing is, to the point of becoming an obsession. I love the details you provide in your blog, and I always get a smile or chuckle from your comments. Your finished outfits are truly insiring (I like the blouse both with and without the ruffles). Thanks so much for taking the time to blog about your sewing projects!ReplyDelete
P.S. I'm a lawyer too www.tax-lawyer-texas.com
Very nice without the ruffles! Love the tailored look and of course the fit is perfect!ReplyDelete
I read about the interfacing technique you used on the facings in Connie Long's Easy Guide to Sewing Blouses (p. 64-65) amd I agree that it is well worth the little bit of finickiness required.ReplyDelete