|This is what it's supposed to look like|
So here's the muslin. FYI I've inserted small shoulder pads for these photos.
There's good and bad in this. One good thing is that the pieces went together quite easily despite the almost complete lack of markings.
Even though Lekala drafts to your specified measurements, the fit isn't perfect. And I didn't expect it to be. However, it is manageable with tweaks that are not too alien in my experience. I need a small wedge taken out of the CF above my bust, the front shoulder is a bit too broad, and I need some more shaping in the princess seams. Also, the darts are a bit too high. Finally, the hip curve is too extreme.
The CB is dead straight, which I knew would not work for me. I've pinched out about 2cm at the waist through the CB seam. Although the upper back appears too wide in this photo I will leave this as is. It can always be adjusted in the sewing, and I need a bit of room there.
Style-wise, the pattern doesn't match the so-called "technical" drawing, which to me is more of a sketch.
I have cut off the seam allowances at CF, and on the collar and lapels. The buttons are placed lower on the pattern and the lapels and collar are both bigger and rounder than I would have liked. I don't think it will be too difficult to make the adjustments I want.
The proportions of the peplum are also different - I have not cut off the hem allowance but to me, the unhemmed length is about right.
The sleeves seem too wide to me. I'll remove width from the front seam on both the upper and under sleeve sleeves. This will also add a nice curve - as drafted this seam is pretty straight on both pieces.
You can't see it in these photos, but the curved opening at the back sleeve seam is differently-shaped on the upper and under sleeve pieces. I think they should be the same.
It's interesting that the sleeves are the right length for me since I have short arms and usually have to shorten sleeves by about 2.5cm. I made the mistake of telling this to Lekala the only other time I ordered one of their patterns, and the sleeves were ridiculously short (you can't specify how much shorter than average your arms are). This time I let them think I had arms of average length.
I already pointed out that there are few markings on this pattern. This didn't bother me except in relation to the sleeves. There is some ease in the back sleeve seam and you have to know where to put it (in the elbow area). Setting the sleeve in was more of a problem. There is only one mark - to show where the sleeve cap sits relative to the shoulder seam. When, after a couple of tries, I got it properly set in, I realized that the sleeve cap has very little ease and all of it is in the front shoulder. I'm going to take note of the point where the under sleeve intersects with the side seam and add another mark there.
I'm inclined to proceed. Comments?