Sunday, September 21, 2014

Closing it up ... and suddenly, it's done!

I sort of knew that closing up the back seam and adding the zipper to my sari dress was going to take all day.  And it did.

But it's done!

Hand picked zipper!
I decided to use a lapped application rather than attempt to sew an invisible zipper into my shifty and many layered silk skirt.  Especially since, as you may be able to see in the above photo) there is a pleat (so 6 layers of chiffon plus seam allowances) that lies EXACTLY on the cb seam line.

On the theory that visualization helps with most tasks, I spent a lot of mental sewing time between the last post and this one - imagining the installation and working through the mechanics of each side. I also (having been tipped off by Goodbye Valentino that it covered lapped zippers in a good way) downloaded the free zipper class from Craftsy and watched it.  This was helpful and I recommend the class to you, even though I didn't install my zipper exactly the way Sunni does in the class.

I would tell you how I did it, but (a) it's too complicated and (b) I forget parts ... already!  So pictures:
Underlap.  Nice, huh?

I had to add a facing of silk organza for the overlap side because my seam allowance was too narrow. With this zipper installation, the centre of the zipper is shifted to the overlap side.  

Once I had it all lined up I very carefully sewed the zipper in by hand, using a pick stitch.  Like this, but without the beads.




The skirt has twirl!





33 comments:

  1. What a mind bender but you did it! Absolutely gorgeous dress!!

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  2. So beautiful! I would have been so intimidated by a center back zipper & that pleat & probably reverted to a side zip. But yours came out so lovely! Amazing. :) This whole dress is really wonderful.

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  3. Gorgeous gorgeous dress--the kind of classic that should be saved for the next generation.

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    1. My thoughts exactly, Wendy! It's an heirloom garment.

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  4. I'm a long time lurker on your blog and don't comment as often as I should. But, I had to come out of Lurkville to say this is an AMAZING dress. A. MAZE. ZING!

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  5. WOW! This dress is fantastic -- and great job on the lapped zipper. I took that crafts class a year ago or so and found it very informative as well! I love it!

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  6. the dress is SO beautiful!! you look so pretty and happy!! Happy sewing keep wearing those Beautiful colors!!

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  7. This turned out so amazingly well! The fabric is beautiful, it fits perfectly and I love the zipper application. ENJOY!

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  8. Wow, this looks wonderful. Beautifully done!

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  9. Stunning! What a fabulous finale :)

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  10. Lovely, lovely, lovely and so so so so so well executed ! This zipper is perfect. You just reminded me of a technique Elizabeth (my first sewing teaching) thought me. It was similar to the technique you used and you was using long silk cords to be able to get dressed and undressed alone... funny like that ones we have on wet suits. :_) anyhow... if for you this is the volcano dress for me it is "la robe du soleil levant". Voilà une tenue qui se fera remarquée lors de ce mariage. Magnifique ! Et maintenant que la fête commence afin que Don te face virevolter sur la piste de danse xx

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  11. How nice to see you in a colorful outfit! Great job!
    LynneW

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  12. Lovely and well worth your effort.

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  13. Great job of sewing this one, and it looks fabulous on you. So worth the time and the extra attention to detail you gave it.

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  14. Beautiful! You are going to enjoy wearing it!

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  15. That's gorgeous. Love the flames of colour from red to orange.

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  16. What a breathtaking dress! Really stunning patternplacement. I had some reservations about starting the skirt with a yellow stripe, but it is gorgeous!

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  17. Beautiful dress - love the colors!

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  18. Holy sacred cow, this is beautiful!

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  19. Beautiful! I love the colors on you. And what's better than a twirly skirt? Yay!

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  20. Stunning! Absolutely beautiful. Loving the shoes and belt - they work perfectly.

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  21. It's fantastic! What an absolutely gorgeous dress. Love the colors too! Fabulous.

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  22. You've done it again, Kay - another masterpiece! Thank you for sharing your immense creativity and talent. It's really an inspiration.

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  23. Just so pretty. Lovely fabric and the dress is stunning on you,

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  24. Brilliant! But get yourself some RED shoes!

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  25. Beautiful dress! The color is wonderful for you. It looks dressy, but easy to wear. Love it!

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  26. Gorgeous dress, the colours looks so good on you and they style is perfect for the fabric and you. Enjoy wearing it and agree you need some perfect coloured shoes.

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