One of the features of the Material Things Fearless Jacket is its in-seam zippered pockets. I figured the pattern is called "fearless" because you'd have to be to sew such a thing and expect it to look any good. I've put in my share of invisible zips over the years but tend to approach the task with a bit of a quaver in my voice, if you know what I mean. I learned how to do it back when the world was young and zippers came in packages with instructions. They said to sew the zipper in first and sew the seam closed afterwards, and you used one of those special blue plastic feet that fit on any kind of sewing machine. It's hard to manoeuvre your zipper foot close enough to the end of the zipper to make a really neat transition between zipper and seam. Sometimes you had to fudge a few hand stitches at the seam below the zipper opening. More often, you had to rip and re-sew. Neither would be a good idea in leather.
By contrast, Kathryn Brenne's method worked perfectly, the first time (a practice zipper) and the second and third times too (the real thing)! Here's how:
It turns out that things go a lot better when you have the right tricks up your sleeve. The trick, in this case, is Wonder Tape. Stick this stuff on the zipper tape, both sides, as shown to the right.
Once both sides are sewn, you have to fish the zipper pull out of the little well you've sewn it into below the pocket opening so that it's accessible in the pocket opening.
Look! Kathryn was right! No sign of the ugly mess behind.
It'll be fine...
9 hours ago