For instance, I've already inserted the shoulder pads in my Vogue 2770 jacket with hand stitches as seen in this post. I like to bag the jacket body lining (without sleeves) by machine, then hand-baste the lining around the armscye of the jacket. Sewing the sleeves this way ensures the lining will not budge inside the jacket. Then, you stitch the sleeve to the lining using more-or-less invisible stitches. The sleeves likewise will never budge. If there is the correct amount of ease in the lining, all will be well.
I did this on my orange plaid jacket as you can see in this post, and I like how it looks, once done. But hand-sewing is definitely not my favorite part of sewing.
Which may also explain why I signed up for a class on PR with Susan Khalje. The class name is "Couture Hand Stitches" and we're supposed to learn these ones:
- The Basting Stitch
- Hand Overcasting
- The Catch Stitch
- The Slip Stitch
- The Fell Stitch
- The Invisible Hem Stitch
- The Back Stitch
- The Prick Stitch
- The Thread Chain
- The Thread Bar
- The Blanket Stitch
- The Buttonhole Stitch
Random information: "couture" is a pretty ordinary word in its language of origin, which is French. It simply means "sewing". "Haute couture", on the other hand, was a very formal term which designates those design houses which are formally designated as members of the French Chambre syndicale de la haute couture. According to Wikipedia, to be eligible for this they must:
- Design made-to-order for private clients, with one or more fittings.
- Have a workshop (atelier) in Paris that employs at least fifteen people full-time.
- Each season (i.e., twice a year), present a collection to the Paris press, comprising at least thirty-five runs/exits with outfits for both daytime wear and evening wear.
If only, after (virtually) rubbing shoulders with Ms. Khalje, my hand-sewing will have this je ne sais quoi too. Right now, my stitching is rather utilitarian... (and I don't much like the process either).
Jacket is almost done ...