Monday, February 17, 2020

Vogue 9022 - fit issues

Ugh
The cover art of Vogue 9022 is seriously ugly. I would never have bought this pattern but for the many very positive reviews on Pattern Review which praise it for being super easy to sew and very comfortable to wear.

I am making it from a wool double knit (maybe a blend) that has quite a bit of stretch but no lycra. The idea of making this dress from a woven has zero appeal to me. But initially I chose my size from the available choices (XS-S-M-L) conservatively based on my measurements. S is supposedly 8-10. I figured I could take it in and cut it down once I could see how it was going to fit.

As I predicted, the fit was very sloppy. See for yourself. It's too wide from top to bottom. The armscye is very low. Also, as I moved around I realized that the dress was rotating back, suggesting to me that the back was too short relative to the front. And the back is just generally baggy.

So ... alterations. First, I sewed it back at the side seams to size XS above the waist and a smidge wider at the hip. At the shoulder seams I sewed it to XS. I took two vertical darts in the back and sewed out a third vertical dart in the CB seam.

Happier with this shape
Then, I took some depth out of the front only by opening up the shoulder area and shortening the front along the lines pinned out in the photo.

I shaved out some of the princess seams in front to create more waist darts, in effect.

Next and hopefully last, I will have to cut the front neck lower to match the amount of depth I took out of the shoulder seams.

So, not such a simple sew. But I think I will like this dress once it is done.

16 comments:

  1. Big difference! The fit is flattering now.

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  2. Looks SO MUCH BETTER now that you've made the changes. I think Vogue is joining the current pattern making trend of drafting for the baggy, ie. no fitting issues, trend I seem to find among patterns today. Maybe sewers don't know how to fit and the pattern companies are producing designs with this in mind. Glad you corrected the dress because it is much more flattering now.

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  3. Looks nice. I've made this pattern twice and really liked it. Once out of wool crepe and the other from boucle. I can imagine how large it would be in a knit. Look forward to seeing the finished dress!

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    1. Your versions were among those that convinced me this was a good pattern!

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  4. This is looking so good on you and Vogue's Very Easy patterns are never very easy if you want a good fit!

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  5. A friend made this dress and I loved it on her, so I bought the pattern and some lovely, soft denim -- but haven't started it yet. I'm glad to see your fitting process. It'll help me when I get to it -- I do want to cut the sleeves quite short. Summers are so hot in southern Arizona!

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  6. Definitely worth the effort - that color is just beautiful!

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  7. Looking good!

    I love this pattern! Excited to see it finished. The color is beautiful.

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  8. Much better after your alterations and I love that color.

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  9. fantastic color and fit is looking good. I find the neckline kind of wide on so many patterns.

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  10. The dress looks great! I made a dress out of the same pattern out of a loos weave woven material. I didn't like the ease in the dress. It is now a shealth dress. Mixed feelings about this pattern. Your redo is beautiful!

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  11. Wow! A miracle that it looks good now. You have more patience than me.

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  12. Always have 3 measurements for bust,hips and waist with you when buying pattterns. Sizes such as X or XL or S usually include 3 actual sizes inside ( 10-12-14,or 16-18-20) what explain why are seams allowance are to big. If you are fitting a dress - first fit shoulder seams to keep a balance, Next side seams keep vertical. After that go down -bust darts, waist darts, hip line, hem line. Sean allowances don't have to be the same for both details. Enjoy. Fitting is always exciting.

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  13. Fitting is amazing. Try to take in half inch only on sleeve under arm not changing armhole line and draping on sleeve will disappeared.

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  14. Amazing what a few tweaks does. Looking good now.

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  15. Yours looks great. Thanks for the info on the details. Wanted to post under my name but couldn’t figure it out.

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