Here's the pattern photo, front and back. Why are there only a couple of reviews of this dress on Pattern Review I wonder?
This dress needs to be fitted so it falls smoothly without being tight. So, even though a fit and flare dress might seem pretty fool-proof, I made a half-muslin of the bodice, down to the hip area, cutting a straight size 10.
But the most obvious problem is that the CF is not hanging properly. Below the waist, it's opening up all by itself. This isn't, by the way, because the hips are too tight. The CF is too long above the waist.
It's less obvious from the picture, but the side seams were also too extremely curved in at the waist, even though (again) the total circumference of the dress fits ok.
I also sewed a less extreme curve at side seams which relaxes the fit overall.
I have a question for you experts out there. Once I take a wedge out of CF, the front edge is no longer on the straight grain. My hunch is that this is irrelevant. I've adjusted the facing pieces accordingly, and I will stabilize the CF edge with fusible tape to make sure it doesn't stretch. But if anyone out there has had a bad experience with this adjustment, please pipe up in the comments!
I'll fix the CB length problem by taking a wedge out of the CB panel, 1cm at the widest and tapering to nothing at the princess seam.
And what is going on at my back neck? Dowager's hump??? I may have to take a little dart there.
I like the finished length of the sleeves as is, so will add a bit of length there.
Not dowager's hump but possibly high round back which is very common in the over 40 set. I'm almost 60 and do a high round back adjustment in almost everything now. Palmer and Pletsch fit books cover this adjustment.
ReplyDeleteTheresa in Tucson
I thought high round back was a euphemism for dowager's hump. What's the difference?
DeleteKayy
ReplyDeleteI usually need to add length to the CF which is done the opposite way i.e. slice and spread a wedge. I true the CF by drawing a line straight down to the hem. Thisalso adds a little ease across the tummy which I need. The blouse or in your case dress, will hang better on your body if the CF is on the straight of grain of the fabric
I agree that a high round back alteration is needed. I have the same issue. This is technically not a princess seam if it's far enough to the side to have a dart, it's a side panel. For me this makes a difference, for you maybe not so much. Is it a bit too wide in the shoulders? There are some drag lines in the front pointing to the shoulder.
ReplyDeleteThe CF alteration looks exactly the same as the one I usually make for a swayback. It's a reasonably simple operation to straighten the piece out so that you get the whole thing on grain rather than the lower half going off at an angle. The only difficulty I've found with this is that the hem is no longer horizontal and this can be quite obvious on some fabrics.
ReplyDeleteif the cf and the cb are both too long and the sides are too nipped in, the indication is that the whole waist needs to be taken up by the same amount as you lifted the front. this will bring the waist up to a point where the waist is a little less curved in. it will also get rid of some and probably all of the poufiness at the back. the neck is a little odd and you're right about darts, but i think the collar will cover them anyway, so that's what i would do. i don't think it got stretched out in working the shape. at any rate if you think there may be some curving at the top of your back, the darts will accommodate that. i agree about the sleeves. they're certainly short enough as is. altogether it's a very nice dress and you did a great job sewing it. i'll be looking forward to seeing it finished.
ReplyDeletethe back is definitely too wide and needs to be taken in at the princess seams as you said. i rethought the neck and before you do anything, be sure that the collar will be still fit the neck measurement
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ReplyDeletei'm feeling dumb to keep talking, but i'm starting to feel the pattern is too big for you. do you need a smaller size with a wide shoulder adjustment and grading out at the hip?
DeleteDon't stop talking Barbara! I think your suggestion of shortening the bodice all the way around above the waist is excellent. I will cut the 10 and assess the fit in my fashion fabric as I go.
DeleteI'm excited to see the final outcome. I always thought this was such a pretty pattern and also wondered why no one had reviewed it. thanks for showing the muslin. That, along with the comments, have taught me quite a bit.
ReplyDeleteThank you for sharing your analysis of the fitting issues with this pattern. It's has always been a favorite. I wonder whether the size 8 would make the tasks a little easier. I know you can make almost anything work well, but there is just a lot of fabric all over. Comparing the model shots with the muslin, even the shoulder seams could move more toward the body.
ReplyDeleteRegarding the dead dart on the fronts. Wouldn't you just true up the bottom hem of the fronts and move on? You wouldn't then be off grain, would you? I think I need coffee.
Amanda made this dress last year - http://amandasadventuresinsewing.blogspot.com/2013/06/vogue-1233-white-silver-pamella-roland.html
ReplyDeleteMaybe she would have some insights?
Interestingly, my thought was also that perhaps you should go down a size...
ReplyDeleteI have this pattern but never got round to making it. I think you can make it work, you always do!