Sunday, September 5, 2010

Swearing off Material Things patterns now ...

Just remind me if I seem to be falling off this particular wagon.  I don't like the way they, or at least the two I own, (don't) fit me.  


Earlier this year, I tried out the "Fearless T Shirt" pattern.  Yuck.  


I spent much of yesterday trying to kill two birds with one stone - namely actually sewing on my new machine (which turns out to be an interesting back-to-basics learning experience) and making a muslin of the "Fearless Jacket & Vest" pattern.  I'm planning to make a leather jacket.  



Now there are only 3 reviews of this pattern on PR.  Two give it a glowing "love it" type thumbs up while the third does mention that it was too big so she had to give the vest she made away.  Well, my experience is more like that reviewer's.  Ms. Podolak might say that it's my fault for not reading ALL of the information on the back of the pattern envelope, which does include the finished garment measurements (OK you can now all mock the the Sewing Lawyer for not reading the fine print).  It turns out full disclosure is made of the fact that size 6 (my bust size) has 12 cm of ease at the bust (that's a whopping 4.75"!!) and size 8 (my hip size) has 15 cm of ease at the hip (holy cow; 6").   


But the "fashion drawing" on the envelope is so very misleading.  If that drawn jacket showed 15cm of ease it would have been standing visibly away from the skinny hips of that "model", as indeed my too-real muslin is doing on me.  


If this were a waiver clause in a contract, I'd say the ease measurements should have been in RED and large bold type; perhaps saying something like:


WARNING!
IF YOU CHOOSE YOUR SIZE BY YOUR ACTUAL BODY MEASUREMENTS, THE RESULTING JACKET WILL NOT RESEMBLE THE PICTURE ON THE ENVELOPE.  READ THE "FINISHED MEASUREMENTS" CHART ON THE ENVELOPE CAREFULLY BEFORE PROCEEDING.  


GRRR.  


All of that said, I like the lines of this jacket, and to its credit it does have a ton of seams to take in.  I experimentally pinned out (a lot) of extra fabric last night and will work with it a bit longer before starting a muslin of the pattern shown in leather in September's issue of Burda Magazine, which is really pretty!  It's shown on a real human being ... and it's Burda whose sizing is quite predictable (but I think I'd move the sleeve zips to the back seam).




Oh yeah, the armscye on the fearless "fitted" jacket is too deep on me as well, and it was drafted for Ms. Gorilla Arms.  I'll be taking about 2.5cm (1") of length out through the upper chest and sleeve cap and at least the same out of the length of the sleeve.  



8 comments:

  1. At least it's only a muslin. When I abandon a pattern all together in the muslin stage, I feel sort of relieved it didn't go farther.

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  2. Oooh, cutting! You don't think that taking the muslin apart and re-cutting the pieces to, say, a straight size 4, would be more straightforward? (bring it over....)

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  3. Great choice, that is going to look fabulous on you. Be careful though, it is quite addictive. Are you going with brown or black?

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  4. Cool pattern for leather. I am looking forward seing the fitted muslin (a) and the final result on leather (b). As becki said, black or brown or other colour ? The burda is very nice as well. I would leave the zip in the front. I is a nice variation.

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  5. The pattern looks interesting. After several failures, I decided that someone wearing a piece of clothing is the better way to evaluate the fit of a garment rather than a drawing. Also, at that point I learned to check the ease. The pattern design seems to be worth playing with the alterations. Good luck with this project. Gita

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  6. Maybe the reason it's 'Fearless' is that you have room to wear body armour under it???

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  7. I had a look at the website. Her garments are designed to fit like the better ready-to-wear garments and also for the mature woman who needs more room through the bust, waist and hips. There seems to be lots more ease in the garments and there is a comparison with sizing (Material Things vs a Vogue pattern) and there is considerable difference in ease measurements.
    Here is the link to the page of patterns with the comparison measurement chart on it.
    http://www.ceceliapodolak.com/classic.html

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  8. I think you were lucky to find this out at the muslin stage, and the Burda leather jacket is hot! Can't wait to see what you come up with from your class!

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