Continuing with my saga of the orange plaid jacket, I am pleased to report that progress IS being made. I have completed the pockets (double welt, with flaps) and thought I'd check in to show you how I made the welt pockets and flaps. BTW the flaps match. I'm pleased.
"plaid matching by slip basting". It worked. I'm using my lifetime supply of basting thread, purchased on one of my recent trips to Montreal to suss out fabric stores for PR Weekend Canada (weekend of June 18-20, 2010). The lady in the store told me there were two types of basting thread - the kind that breaks and the kind that doesn't. She told me the Montreal tailors mostly favored the kind that does not break. You can give it a good pull, and it all comes out. I thought, if it is good enough for the Montreal tailors it is good enough for me, and bought this gigantic cone. Even though I say I hate hand sewing, I'm growing to like my basting thread.
stuff you use in the sewing room that isn't intended for sewing. We had some painter's masking tape in the house. I measured the exact size/shape of the pocket opening, cut two (mirror image) in tape, and applied them to the outside of the jacket fronts as shown here.
At this point, I cut a generously sized bias patch of fabric to serve as the welts, and centred this over the marked box, on the right side of the jacket front.
After turning the welts to the inside and pressing them just so, the little triangles at the ends of the welt box need to be stitched down, and then it's time for the flaps.
To sew the flaps, I used the same technique as shown in my tutorial. I used lining fabric for the facing of the flap to reduce bulk, and before sewing the lining to the interfaced flap, I trimmed all the seam edges of the flap lining by approximately 3mm or 1/8". This makes the lining layer smaller than the fashion fabric flap. In this photo, you can see how, when I pinned the edges together, it is obvious that the two layers are not the same size. I had to stretch the heck out of the lining layer while sewing along the seam lines.
I'm using an orange/blue silk fabric from stash for lining. I acquired many metres of this at a yard sale a few years ago. It pays to stash good quality fabric when you can find it for a great price!
I won't be able to avoid cutting the sleeves for too much longer ... wish me luck!