Showing posts with label Vogue 1385 Sandra Betzina shirt. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Vogue 1385 Sandra Betzina shirt. Show all posts

Thursday, August 7, 2014

Another FO

So I also finished the Sandra Betzina shirt (Vogue 1385).  It's not in danger of supplanting my shingle dress for favorite project status.  In time, I may come to love it.

I was apprehensive about sewing this unusual fabric (fuzzy "woollen" embroidered lace on a sheer silk base) for nothing, as it turned out.  It behaved very well, even for buttonholes.

All seams are French seams - sewn first pass with a narrow serged seam and the second pass on the sewing machine.

I ended up cutting about 8" off the bottom to make it a standard shirt length.  I have worn it as a light topper (today over this version of Vogue 1250).  I also made self-fabric tie belt for it, but so far have not actually used it.


Quoi d'autre?

I used grey silk organza for the facings as you can see on this inside-out shot.  This particular organza is quite stiff so I did not need any interfacing and the entire effect is as light/sheer as possible.

Buttonhole/facing
The inside-out shot also shows the darting.  If I were to make this shirt again (as I said before) I'd make that top-shoulder dart less deep and try to move some darting to the back.  The back neck could be higher/snugger and darting would help that.  I am also planning to make the sleeve cuff darts deeper - they're a little floppy.

I wonder what my stash will move me to make next?




Sunday, July 20, 2014

Miscellaneous developments

I finished my latest knitting project.   Here it is on Ravelry.  It's a cotton top and I fear it may become an orphan.  It's too dark to coordinate with grey or black.  Why didn't I anticipate this?

This is the same cotton slub yarn I used last year for some rather more successful items.  But this is heavier.  It's knitted with four strands of the lace-weight yarn that I used single for my Ethereal top and double for my Featherweight cardigan.

Unfortunately, the tendency of this yarn to bias is not manageable at this weight.  I shall have to learn to live with a top that twists.

I went to Montreal on the weekend to meet up with some other bloggers.  Strangely, I do not have a single photo of this gathering!  Among the group were Caro (our fearless leader), VickiAnne-MarieClaire and Julie.  Heather Lou of Closet Case Patterns also joined us after work on her very last day.  Watch for more from her, coming soon!

For anyone who is interested in fabric shopping in Montreal, Caro prepared guides to two distinct fabric shopping areas in the city:  St-Hubert Street and Chabanel.  To shop Chabanel, where we went on Friday, you have to have the addresses since most of the stores are well-hidden on the 4th or 7th floor of several non-descript buildings.  Most of the businesses are not open on weekends, unfortunately.  I demonstrated remarkable discipline, picking up only two pieces.

One is tentatively earmarked for Vogue 8904 - the Marcy Tilton shingle dress.

Yikes that model is long and skinny!

I had a look at the instructions and noticed that each of the shingles is sewn on a full dress piece, so this dress has at least 2 layers of fabric on every square inch. Also, the lower edges of each shingle are supposed to be left raw.

I will look in my stash for a lightweight and smooth knit to use as a base since the fabric I bought has texture. Also, I will experiment with small hems since I have no interest in the tightly rolled edges that my jersey fabric will probably make (especially after washing).

I'll get right on that project since summer is fleeting.








Meanwhile, Vogue 1385 is in time-out.  I cut the longer length and it is practically a dress. I need to  decide how much to remove so I can wear it as a shirt (in or out).  I think I'll make a tie belt for it.  And then I need to figure out what to do about buttons. And, more to the point, buttonholes.  I don't really look forward to sewing them in this fabric.

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Given the properties of my fabric, I had decided to sew French seams using a narrow serged seam in the first pass.  Imagine my surprise to see that this is exactly what the instructions say to do!  It worked very well.

The order of construction is strange.  You sew the raglan seams together, then apply the facings, and only after that do you make the darts that shape the neckline.  It is, in consequence, impossible to try this on as you are making it.  At left, I'm pinning the darts out prior to applying the facings to see if it is going to work.

(Those hairy white blobs you can see are little pieces of white paper labels holding down poorly-done tailors tacks - the only way I could think of to mark the many points that needed marking on my strange fabric.)

I made the facings from grey silk organza to avoid bulk and to keep the facing as invisible as possible.  It's not my best ever work, but will do.

As for style/fit, my only dislikes are that the armscye is pretty low and I find the transition from the pleated/ruffly front neckline to the smooth back neckline a little abrupt.  It's a bit too "coffin clothes" for my liking.

At right is the most graphic view of that.  If I was going to make this again, I would monkey with the pleat at the shoulder to make it less full, and add at least a couple more pleats at the back raglan seam and somewhere in the back neckline.  Not to add fullness or shaping, just enough to keep the effect going.




Sunday, July 6, 2014

A long tunic top

Yes, a long tunic top is what I need to wear with these.

I suppose the basic fit is better, but as usual a different fabric (lots more stretchy recovery in this RPL doubleknit) makes a world of difference to the garment.


There is still a bit of extra length in the back.  Sigh.

For my next sewing trick I'm going to try Vogue 1385.  I was drawn to this pattern when it first came out, and a couple of prolific bloggers (Margy and Shams) have made truly wonderful garments from it.  I love the pleated neck and sleeves, and the raglan sleeve seams in back.



I'm using this fabric.  It's a fuzzy yarn (probably acrylic) embroidered on a silk (chiffon?) background. I threw caution to the winds and cut it out without testing the fit first.


I'll use silk organza instead of self-fabric for the facings.

I'm hoping for a nice looking but light weight topper for the rest of the summer.