tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5140515590936881334.post5593524929142124280..comments2024-03-21T12:43:52.656-04:00Comments on The Sewing Lawyer: More about those sleevesKayYhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09965798068172494708noreply@blogger.comBlogger10125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5140515590936881334.post-38332635983903308662012-08-26T12:08:24.374-04:002012-08-26T12:08:24.374-04:00Your analysis of the variant in the sleeves is ext...Your analysis of the variant in the sleeves is extremely helpful in explaining analogous issues I've faced in drafting sleeves for plus size shirts and blouses. I spent a lot of time wrestling with redrawing and making muslins before throwing out several efforts. Thanks very much for sharing your thoughts and pictures. I look forward to trying some new amendments utilizing your assessment.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5140515590936881334.post-44626016131985128492012-08-18T11:21:10.384-04:002012-08-18T11:21:10.384-04:00Kay, I'm very glad you are posting your findin...Kay, I'm very glad you are posting your findings. My muslin sleeves looked like the old leg-o-mutton variety. There were also other fitting issues, and two of the pattern pieces in my pattern were not graded. I don't feel up to wrestling with this particular pattern, so I'm opting for the old Chanel-inspired Basic Vogue that I've made before, and I'll use Claire's instructions and Ann Rowley's tute for the construction.<br /><br />I'll be following your journey with much interest!Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5140515590936881334.post-55509823286612500572012-08-15T16:19:36.336-04:002012-08-15T16:19:36.336-04:00this may be way off base, but I wonder if the patt...this may be way off base, but I wonder if the pattern graders were accounting for what's known as "carrying angle" in our elbows. Some of us have much more of it than others.<br /><br />At any rate, it will be fascinating to follow your progress!Jean Snoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5140515590936881334.post-50710963884349680282012-08-15T13:47:13.027-04:002012-08-15T13:47:13.027-04:00Kay, if your interested, here's the address to...Kay, if your interested, here's the address to Debra Martin's blog, Sew What describing how she drafted a 3 piece sleeve from a 2 piece sleeve. <br />http://debramartin.blogspot.ch/2010/10/drafting-three-piece-sleeve.html<br />She's using the V8259 pattern which also has a 3 piece sleeve, but wanted to draft a sleeve from a custom 2 piece sleeve she already has.<br /><br />Also from the SG forum all about V8804, Claire Shaeffer herself chimes in with this interesting note pertaining to sleeves;<br /><br />‘Sleeves/grain—I’ve only seen a few sleeves with the bias front. This is a garment bias—not true (45◦) bias. Most have a bias undersleeve; the amount of the bias varies. I think this relates to the pitch of the arm -- the way the individual holds her arms. English author Natalie Bray has a short section on this in Dress Fitting. Savile Row tailors are the experts on pitch. The grain on the undersleeve should hang perpendicular to the floor.’<br /><br />Her entire post can be read here, scrolling about 2/3 the way down the page;<br />http://artisanssquare.com/sg/index.php/topic,18259.70.html<br /><br />The originally ungraded (from size 14) piece for the sleeve is discussed in this topic as well, and those who haven't seen it will enjoy the Ann Rowley link to her step by step tutorial, in picture form, of this jacket.Dalenoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5140515590936881334.post-13285158959588822942012-08-15T09:46:11.997-04:002012-08-15T09:46:11.997-04:00Ruminating on it last night, I decided to compare ...Ruminating on it last night, I decided to compare one more sleeve pattern from another Vogue pattern, and then modify one of the more standard 2 piece sleeves that fits so that it has the top seam and vent. KayYhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/09965798068172494708noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5140515590936881334.post-54128690225375787212012-08-15T09:20:22.767-04:002012-08-15T09:20:22.767-04:00I understand that the idea of the 2 piece sleeve i...I understand that the idea of the 2 piece sleeve is to give you the vent on top, but if it fits so badly I'd use the sleeve that fits well and work on altering that for a three piece effect, or just forgoing the three piece look and go with the sleeve that fits, and it fits you really well. Nancy Khttps://www.blogger.com/profile/02235347323004026695noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5140515590936881334.post-30197222857564178582012-08-15T07:32:37.370-04:002012-08-15T07:32:37.370-04:00Tedious, plodding work... but worth it in the end!...Tedious, plodding work... but worth it in the end! It's why/how you turn out the quality garments you do!<br />Cheering from the sidelines,<br />BrendaAnonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5140515590936881334.post-43736995613603424942012-08-15T07:16:06.033-04:002012-08-15T07:16:06.033-04:00I agree with katherine, I would use the 2770 sleev...I agree with katherine, I would use the 2770 sleeve you like and copy the 2770 armhole (belonging to the sleeve you like) onto the 8804 jacket.Donnanoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5140515590936881334.post-79446012166262444972012-08-15T05:59:36.890-04:002012-08-15T05:59:36.890-04:00Is the V2770 drafted to be most comfortable when w...Is the V2770 drafted to be most comfortable when walking around, and the V8804 drafted to be most comfortable sitting at a computer? Alison Cumminshttps://www.blogger.com/profile/06370841996857073237noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5140515590936881334.post-63305717182847127932012-08-15T04:55:16.594-04:002012-08-15T04:55:16.594-04:00I have both of these patterns, and have not used e...I have both of these patterns, and have not used either, so this is a very interesting post for me. Why are you going to redraft the sleeve and not just use the 2770 sleeve in your 8804 jacket?<br /><br />I have a Chanel jacket in planning stages, but still have not settled on a pattern, so I will be following your progress with interest.katherine hhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/17314030133556269765noreply@blogger.com