tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5140515590936881334.post6091401248035125713..comments2024-03-21T12:43:52.656-04:00Comments on The Sewing Lawyer: Building bridgesKayYhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09965798068172494708noreply@blogger.comBlogger6125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5140515590936881334.post-8170336475306202502013-09-06T22:19:06.351-04:002013-09-06T22:19:06.351-04:00Do your books include info on where the wire shoul...Do your books include info on where the wire should set? I would think they do. The wire should be comfortable. If it's too long, cut it to the size you need! My opinion (and that's all it is!) is that the wire should set directly beneath the breast. If the wire at the bridge isn't at your breast, then I think the bridge needs to be wider. I had to make very dramatic width adjustments to the Elan 645 bridge, and I know others in the sew along did also, so I don't think it's necessarily unusual to do so.<br /><br />Also, the wires have a purpose, and I'm not sure they'll fully accomplish that as shown above. If the wires you're using aren't the right size or shape, then get others. I've heard of the omega shape mentioned in a previous comment, but I'm not totally sure of what it is. I do know that there are differently-shaped wires available for the omega shape. Beverley probably sells them.<br /><br />I wouldn't worry about the other stuff until you get the bridge and wire size and placement nailed down.LisaBhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/01006819220069426357noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5140515590936881334.post-36823589987722447042013-08-31T18:10:50.331-04:002013-08-31T18:10:50.331-04:00This is all interesting. I haven't made a bra...This is all interesting. I haven't made a bra - too scared I think. So much can go wrong. Good luck!Vickihttps://www.blogger.com/profile/01529416439720810403noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5140515590936881334.post-26019415357755663042013-08-31T08:14:53.150-04:002013-08-31T08:14:53.150-04:00I think I understand what she means. It could be y...I think I understand what she means. It could be you need underwires a size smaller than what your cup size would indicate because your breast projection is more than average for your underwire size. I'm the opposite - I fit into a 32B cup but sometimes need a 34B underwire. <br /><br />Sigrid is an omega shape and if you look at her bras she will use the underwire that best fits her and ease in the extra cup length via very small gathers. The omega shape is mostly common in small band/large cup sizes. <br /><br />If the overall width of the underwire feels good but it is poking you in the underarm you can just cut the end of the underwire off, file off the sharp edge a little, and dip the end in some of that rubber stuff they use for tool handles (you can get it in hardware stores). Annehttp://clothingengineer.comnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5140515590936881334.post-39495292415829047582013-08-30T23:09:58.599-04:002013-08-30T23:09:58.599-04:00I did not take any fabric out of the cups, but rat...I did not take any fabric out of the cups, but rather rotated them away from the wider base of the bridge. <br /><br />I'm not sure I follow your second comment. It seems there is a whole new and unfamiliar vocabulary to master, along with the geometry and engineering...KayYhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/09965798068172494708noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5140515590936881334.post-88532413565878640702013-08-30T17:27:30.642-04:002013-08-30T17:27:30.642-04:00I had the same problem in the lower cup when I sta...I had the same problem in the lower cup when I started making bras and the solution for me was INCREASING the size of the lower cup. The logic behind this is that the lower cup does not have enough room for your beast to sit properly into it. I did this by cutting slits into the lower edge of the lower cup up to just beneath the top edge of the lower cup, then spreading the whole thing slightly. Also the gathers under the arm do not really go away with elastic, although a bit might go away. It really just bunches up under your arm. You are better off to remove some of the excess fabric here with maybe a wedge shape. Hope this helps. Have you seen the bra sew along on Amy's blog 'Cloth Habit'?RebeccaHowardhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/09929389779938934748noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5140515590936881334.post-31026075330858891232013-08-30T17:03:41.219-04:002013-08-30T17:03:41.219-04:00I am wondering about a few things...
1. Did you r...I am wondering about a few things...<br /><br />1. Did you remove the corresponding amount of fabric from the inner lower cups when you widened the lower bridge? That might just fix the cup volume issues...<br /><br />2. I also wonder if you fit in a category of the more "omega" shaped breast where the breadth is slightly less than expected for the breast projection... that might explain why there is a bit of excess cup fabric near the edges without wrinkling at the cup seam... that suggests to me that you do not need a shallower cup.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.com